An Update in Climbing the Midlands

So if you live in the Columbia area of South Carolina and you are looking for places to climb or boulder you have probably gone on the internet to look for a place to go and you've probably found this website, and you've probably thought about checking out some of these spots.  I hate to be the one that tells you this, but Peachtree does not allow climbing, if you've already seen my blog you'll see I did climb there, but that was because I was unaware of the rules without them being clearly stated, but to clear it up DNR does not approve of any kind of climbing within the part.  It is still a wonderful place to go hiking and see some of the incredible diversity that South Carolina has to offer as far as landscape and definitely worth checking out.  As far as the boulders on the other side of the river from the zoo parking lot, they are all on private property and they clearly take it seriously, there are a large number of signs and even video cameras on one individuals property, while yes there are boulders and they are worth at least seeing they are not worth causing problems between the property owners and climbers.  Another note that goes with that is that there are no access points, Laurel Crest Drive is gated and the apartments with the "visitor parking" do not exist, if you are not a resident of the apartments or friends with the residents you are not supposed to be there.  I'm sure a lot of things have changed since the flatliners website was updated so as things go it is a bit more developed out there.

Pump It Don't Hump It

In other news I did find a single route on a boulder and I also sent a route that I have been looking at the last few times I've been out to the boulders by the zoo.  First I'll start with the route I sent today, at about half way up the rock there is a small crimp, and when I say small I mean very small like you can get a little bit less than half of your finger tip on it, but that is okay it is mostly to help you balance when going up to the sloper right on the left of the end of the yellow line.  First you get the fingertips of your right hand on that midway crimp, then you lift your left foot onto a nice little ledge at about knee height.  You then proceed to push and pull yourself up to a balanced point where you can slap your hand on the fairly slick sloper that is on the left of the top of the yellow line.  Once you're balanced you then get your right hand up and get a couple of fingers in a very small pocket like hold, you cant actually get your fingers down in it but its deep enough to pull on, you then move your left hand to one of the small crimps that lie up along the top.  Pull and hug that rock with whatever arm strength you've got till you can get your right foot on that first right hand crimp, once you've got your foot on the crimp/ledge you are (or should be) solid.  No rating for this route yet, I am about 6'2/6'3 so what might be easy for me to reach isn't quite as doable for someone that is of a shorter stature.  As far as a name, if it is unnamed, I think I'm going to go with "Pump it don't hump it."

A warning to this climb, you have a single rock to land on, it is about a foot and a half to two feet wide and about two and a half to three feet long, it is big enough to get someone to spot you on and it is dry, but make sure as always that you have faith in the person spotting you.

Project Route

This is a possible climb that I found while wandering further down the rocks today.  It is an overhanging ledge with about a two and a half or three foot move from the ledge to the sloping ledge and then move along the edges and other slopers on top till you finish out at the top of the yellow line.  When I saw it this morning I was not warmed up enough to stick my fingers on a small ledge and go for it so I decided it would be one to put in the back pocket and save for another day.